From our balcony at Sol Phebus.
Tunis beach.
Waterfall at Tunis medina Bardo Museum.
June 23, 2007: To JFK
This first book I started reading during this trip is Lullaby by Chuck Palaniuk. While waiting to board our flight to JFK, I read the prolog which tells about reports of a Flying Virgin seen in New Mexico who uses a can of Bug-Off insect fogger to write
STOP HAVING BABYS across the sky.
STOP HAVING BABYS across the sky.
This is funny on what turns out to be two accounts. First, it’s already something I think people should consider, but then we get on board. Jamie and I don’t get to sit together, and apparently, neither did another family. So the father takes up twenty minutes convincing another woman and her two year old brat child to switch seats so his family could sit together. Guess where they end up? That’s right, next to me.
I get to spend the whole flight to New York next to brat child and the mother who won’t control him. I’m not a mom, but I learned enough from my parents that if you take control and tell the kid to sit down and shut up, it’ll happen! Instead, she rocks him, trying to talk him into being good, and I super enjoy the red wine they start serving. If nothing else, this was just more praise for the glory of birth control.
Monday, June 25
We’ve made it through our first day in Tunisia. Right now we’re “relaxing” on our balcony, reading and watching the swimmers below. I put relaxing in quotes because it’s having to be done with a constant dance music background. With how much Jamie and I love real music, it kills us that we’ve had to hear Barbie Girl twice. I told Jamie about Palaniuk referral to quiet-aphobes in the Lullaby book. I guess that’s why I enjoy his writing - so relevant!
Today was really nice. We slept until 10:30AM, so we missed breakfast. But we got dressed and went down to the pool. We did some swimming, some reading, and a whole lot of enjoying the sun. Then we ordered lunch. We had ensalade de Tunisianne, which was cucumber, onion, tomato, topped with tuna, and covered in oil, vinegar, and herb dressing. Then we shared a Pizza de Sol Phebus, which had cheese, tomato, peppers, shrimp, tuna, and a fried egg running in the middle. It was good - like lunch and breakfast all in one! After we got done, Jamie said he read in the guidebook that tuna (canned) is everywhere. I guess so.
Then we went to the beach. Little disappointed - pretty dirty. But I have to remember that we were spoiled having grown up going to the Oregon Coast. We’ve been to ALOT of beaches, and I still don’t think anything compares. Sure, you don’t get the constant sun, but we love the openness and cleanliness of the Oregon Coast.
Then we went to the beach. Little disappointed - pretty dirty. But I have to remember that we were spoiled having grown up going to the Oregon Coast. We’ve been to ALOT of beaches, and I still don’t think anything compares. Sure, you don’t get the constant sun, but we love the openness and cleanliness of the Oregon Coast.
We’ve already been reminded of something we learned in Turkey: Don’t buy unless the cost is in writing. We were reminded of this when getting a taxi from the airport to the hotel. The second we walked out the airport door, a guy approached us asking if we needed a taxi. We said maybe, how much? His response - TD40 (TD=Tunisian Dinar). Jamie said, that’s more than our hotel room! So we got away from him. Three seconds later, we were approached by more taxi guys. After some debate, they went with TD20. This was still high, but we were anxious to get to the hotel. After we got into the car and started driving, he tried to say it’d be TD20 EACH. I told him to pull over and let us out. That made him shut up and stick with the original deal. And he wouldn’t run the meter. We checked in the guidebook when we got to the room, and it should have been about TD6. Less learned - no bargaining. Cabs are on meter only.
Bardo Museum
Bardo Museum
Bardo Museum
Bardo Museum
Bardo Museum
Bardo Museum
Fountain in Bizerte
Wednesday, June 27
We’re finishing up our fourth day in Tunisia, and what an experience already. There are so many things we take for granted in our lives, just assuming it’s par for the course. Let’s start with the Sol Phoebus. We knew it had a pool and was by the beach so we thought that would be a great start. We even talked about spending the first couple days crashed out on the beach, which is different for us. But after the fun we’ve had in the last six months, it seemed a perfect plan. But as already stated, the beach was a dump and the pool had a constant techno beat, so that didn’t quite match up.
After we booked the hotel, we learned it was a recovery spot for people who had gone through plastic surgery. That was obviously an odd point for us, but we thought if nothing else, it may provide some crazy photos. Our second night when we had to go to the buffet for dinner, a girl who just had a nose job came in and sat about two tables from us. We didn’t talk then about it, but back in the hotel room discovered neither of us could look at her while eating. It was just a little offsetting. It occurred to me how during mom’s hospital stay, we never saw any patients in the cafeteria, which is a good thing for all. I know I wouldn’t be comfortable being all bandaged up and in a totally public place like that. But at least we could talk about it over a nice cold beer.
We left Tunisia today for Bizerte, which is a great little town, but they apparently don’t sell beer ANYWHERE. Oh yeah, we’re in a Muslim country. Even in Turkey you could find Effes. Sure it wasn’t any better than Budweiser, but it was beer. But no, we have been denied.
We left Tunisia today for Bizerte, which is a great little town, but they apparently don’t sell beer ANYWHERE. Oh yeah, we’re in a Muslim country. Even in Turkey you could find Effes. Sure it wasn’t any better than Budweiser, but it was beer. But no, we have been denied.
However, they have no shortage of garbage. We went walking down a long stone pier today and were talking about all the garbage around. Jamie brought up the idea of a commercial with that Indian that rides up over the hill, sees all the garbage and sheds a tear. But in this he’d go, “Oh, not my country”, and ride away. Before he got too far down the hill, he’d run into Smokey Bear. Instead of saying “Give a hoot, don’t pollute”, he’d just say “Meh”, signifying that Tunisian’s don’t really seem to care about all the garbage. They also don’t seem to be too involved in cleaning it up. At the end of the pier was a cool tiled fountain, but there wasn’t any water running. I pointed it out to Jamie, and he said, “Yeah, this is the monument marking when they just said, ‘Screw it’.”
We walked some more and talked about how interesting it would be to see someone from Tunisia walk into the west side Safeway. It would blow their mind. A grocery store, bigger than one of their apartment buildings, full of food, and an entire aisle of beer. I would be crazy! But it’s a perfect description to compare how good we have it. Our world is clean, convenient, and full of choices. We’re very fortunate.
Friday, June 29
What would you do with yourself if you no longer had to worry about work, cleaning the house, paying bills, feeding the cats, grocery shopping, checking email, answering the phone, all those things that take up the day? Remember, that can’t be hobbies because that still requires shopping for the goods, planning what and how you’re going to do it, probably cleaning up the space to get hobbified in. Pretty much cut out anything most of us spend our time doing. Yesterday I told Jamie I wasn’t liking Tunisia as much as I thought I would, as there wasn’t much stuff to go do like in Turkey and Spain. He said yeah, but he’s been really enjoying getting to talk to the people and learning about their lives.
That made me realize that I had taken my usual approach of needing “plans” to have something to spend my time doing. Sure, we’re on vacation not work, but I still needed the “sights to go see”, which needed “plans to be made.” But that’s not this trip. Like Jamie pointed out, we’re just here being part of the life. That’s what made me question “what do I do to just be me?”
I know since my accident I’ve been taking myself way too seriously. In my mind, it’s been my way of making up for all the time I needed people to take care of me. It’s been my attempt at assuring myself that my brain is not only functioning as good as before, but even better! I’ve been pushing myself to show that even though I got hit by a car, nothing happened. This is my sign to stop, and God bless that McPheeters for getting me there. I’ll never understand how I got so lucky to be with such an honest, straightforward, and caring partner. And that’s how I know that this is going to (continue) to be a great learning, relaxing, and enjoyable trip.
I also want to make a promise to myself right now. In the words of a bumper sticker Josie told me about, “I always thought I wanted a career. Turns out I just wanted paychecks.”
Stop thinking so hard about work. It’s there to help provide the financial means to do the stuff you really love, like helping pay for your awesome (two) houses with your awesome partner, pay to feed your tubby cats, buy your quilting stuff, and get to go on trips like this! That’s it.
Spanish/Turkish Fort
Amphetheater
The Hannible, and the fort on top of the hill.
Crazy Plants
Tabarka
Ha ha ha, moo moo moo.
Saturday, June 30
Jamie decided at breakfast he should open a Christian soup and sandwich chop called Our Daily Bread. It took some effort not to spit out my food in laughter.
Today was really nice! We hiked up the hill to the old Spanish fort, which is actually Turkish (?). It gives a great view of Bizerte and the sea. We took lots of pictures. There’s also an amphitheater, who’s audience was some of the stray dogs. We then went around the back way and came across their cemetery. Really interesting, they do their gravestones the same way they were done in Australia - like plantar boxes. This strikes me because rather than just under grass, you could plant the persons favorite flowers or ground cover. It adds so much individuality to it. I didn’t take photos though, because there were the groundskeepers around and I didn’t want to be rude.
We then walked back into town and stopped at a Lebanese cafe for lunch. We had roasted chicken - so good! And the total bill was TD5, about $3.50 for both of us. Awesome. On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a pharmacy and got sunscreen. TD20 for 50ml! Lesson learned: to meet our Nazi Government’s airport toiletries BS, fill your quart size approved bag with “oddities”. Shampoo and soap can be found anywhere, apparently sun bock cannot - even at the beach. On the plus side, when people find out we’re from America a lot of times they say, “We hate George Bush”. We do too, man. We do too.
Sunday, July 1
Today was quite a day! We left Bizerte to head to Tabarka. We originally thought we’d try Cap Serrat, but asked the hotel guy how to get there, and there was no public transportation. So, we headed toward where he told us to find the bus to Tabarka, and after some searching, ended up on a louage. We were pronouncing it “looge”, then learned it’s “loo-age”, which explains all the odd looks.
Our first part of the trip was great - nice scenery. Then we had to get on a different louage, and that was quite frightening. Our driver was more concerned with arranging his stuffed pets hanging from the windshield than driving. We almost rear ended a cop, which caused the lady sitting next to me to almost fly into Jamie’s lap, who was in the seat ahead of us. Then, he was so distracted, he was driving into the oncoming lane and almost got into another wreck. We were so happy to get the hell out of that van and arrived in Tabarka to do that.
Our first hotel attempt was Hotel Mimosa. It was such a promising name I was so disappointed at the outcome. According to the guide, it should have been up to TD50 a night. Now I know the Arabs love to bargain, but that’s never come up at a hotel - ANYWHERE else. But this was a new experience. The reception guy originally told us it would be TD110 a night. We said that was too high, so he dropped to TD90. Jamie talked to him a little, even got out the guidebook showing our confusion. He then grabbed the printed list of prices that all hotels have to show and tried to tell us the TD61 listed was per person. But he would do TD80 a night for us. Thanks, but no thanks.
We left and walked down into town, where a couple Tunisians stopped us in front of their souvenir tent and tried to talk us into some stuffed camels, but we made it to the next hotel. This hotel is also called Hotel de la Playa, just like the one in Bizerte. And, for the set TD40/night, we get our own bathroom, balcony, breakfast, and a TV. We’re also just a block from the beach. Take that Hotel Mimosa!
After getting settled, we took a walk to find some food, and check out the town. It’s so cute! We found some really good schawarma sandwiches, with fries, for TD1.8 each (about $1.25). We then walked out the pier and checked out the boats. There’s a tourist restaurant boat, like an old pirate ship, called the Hannible! I find that funny. During our walk, the Tunisians try to draw you into what they’re selling. Jamie got talking to one guy, and he asked something like “Working hard today?”
The guys said, “no. Tunisians don’t really work that hard.”
The guys said, “no. Tunisians don’t really work that hard.”
It’s true, and so funny. It’s just like in Turkey, most guys are constantly sitting at a cafe, drinking coffee, and talking. When you do see someone working, like cleaning the bathrooms, taking out garbage, etc., guess who it is... That’s right, women! It blows my mind what they put up with here, but really, when you aren’t aware of alternatives, it’s just par for the course.
We were talking about the difference in this culture and the American culture, in regard to homes specifically. We woke up this morning and looked out the window, and across the street saw the family sleeping on the balcony - together! Keep in mind most families live together in these tiny apartments. Jamie and I got laughing thinking about growing up under those same circumstances. I’m positive Mary, Josie, and I would have actually killed each other had we had to share the one room in the house, and sleep together our whole childhood, and that’s assuming dad didn’t take the three of us out first. I wouldn’t have blamed him.
But when you don’t have anything to compare it to, you just make it work. It would also be interesting to see a Tunisian in America - it would blow their minds. The size of the houses, the size and products available in a grocery store, the enormous cars. Beer alone would be an experience. In Bizerte, we found the liquor store. It was a whole in the wall, hilariously right next to the grocery store, and sold only Celtia beer and wine. You had to stand in a pushy line and shout the order to the poor cashier. Imagine those same customers walking down the beer aisle(s) in stores, then seeing the wine racks. It would blow their minds! Then they would see the giant houses that are almost the size of one of the apartment buildings. We live in a very fortunate society.
Beautiful setting.
Hiking around.
Cool rocks.
A Misfits bumpersticker!
Wednesday, July 4
Happy Independence Day! With our experiences the last two days, I have a new appreciation for our country. And here’s why... Tuesday started out great! We went for a hike up to the fort on top of the hill. It was a nice view of the town, and a great walk through the “woods”. We made it up to the fort, which according to the guide had started building a museum in 2004. Being that was three years ago, we thought it might be done. But in the way of the Tunisians, it not only wasn’t there, but the fort was closed. We walked around, then headed down the hill and hiked along the rocky coast back into town. What Tunisians are reliable in is creating garbage and leaving it everywhere. Which brings up the next part of the day.
We went back to our room, put on our suits, and headed to the beach. On the way, we passed a couple and watched as the guy finished his bottle of water, then threw it into the sea. So proud to be human. The beach offered its own story. We wanted to find a spot away from the crowds. We walked past the area where most of the locals sunbathe. There aren’t many women, but the ones there were in their robes and headdresses, so I would have been super under dressed in my suit. About 3/4 of a mile down the beach, we hit the resort part. This impression was brought on by the French lady laying on her chair in only her G-string. Oi. She was also surrounded by old, heavy-set European guys in their Speedos. This is not cool. We even passed a volleyball game being played by a bunch of guys in Speedos, and women in G-strings or with suits up the bottom. Even being a volleyball player, I couldn’t look.
But we found our spot and had a nice time swimming and laying in the sun.
On our way to the beach, we stopped at Restaurant Touta for a cold beer. The waiter started talking to us, and got us interested in a dinner there. We asked to see the menu and were thrilled to see lobster was only TD9! We told him we’d be back around 7PM and were excited about a nice dinner.
We got there and the waiter had set us up! There were flower petals around the table, the plates had a nice napkin and a flower, and he set out a candle for us. Lovely meal! I tried to get photos, but our batteries hadn’t charge. Bummed, but still a great time.
The chef even came out to meet us, and we thanked him for a delicious meal. Then we asked for the bill. We figured based on the menu and with our drinks and hours devours, it should have been about TD40. The was TD94, which sent us into a tailspin.
The chef even came out to meet us, and we thanked him for a delicious meal. Then we asked for the bill. We figured based on the menu and with our drinks and hours devours, it should have been about TD40. The was TD94, which sent us into a tailspin.
What?! Apparently, the TD9 for lobster was for 100g, and we each had a 400g lobster. Lesson: remember things aren’t as they appear. They’re goal is to find anyway to catch you in giving them money.
We headed back to the room, pouted, then went to sleep. Tomorrow is a new day. That brings us to Wednesday. We went down for breakfast, then headed back up and watched a super stupid movie (City of Lost Gold). Then we went out for a hike to the crazy stone pillars we could see in the distance. We stopped at our usual coffee shop, and a guy and his father in the next table started talking to us. They asked us to come sit with them and talk. Our conversation with them verified a couple things we’ve picked up on:
1. Everyone has a brother in California.
The first question we’re always asked is “Where are you from?”
After our replay, they respond with “I have a brother in California.”
So I tried something new... I asked what town. He said (after some hemming and hahhing) Palm..., I said, “Palm Springs?”
“Yes!”
That should have been our first clue. Why would the rich, republican vacation spot Palm Springs need/want an Arabic language teacher which is what he said his brother did? But let’s go on.
2. There is always a festival happening, but it’s only one day. But they’ll show you!
We knew about this scam from the guidebook and experience. The guidebook says they’ll tell you about a festival, you can get a good spot from their shop. Then they make it hard to get out. So today was the “festival of burber craft” which we could be part of. We said “no thanks, we’re not in the market for carpet.” But they wanted us to take a card to keep, so we obliged and headed to the shop. The second we walk in the door, we see the girl making the carpet, and they start rolling them out. We say, “Give us your card,” and hit the door.
This was actually funny to see because at the coffee shop, they were talking about the carpets and how they were handmade by women. Being me, I asked, “Well, how is it fair for you to be here drinking tea while they do all the work?”
I just got laughs. But seeing the girl do the carpet showed how these are about the same as the latch hook kits you can buy at Michael’s. Poor quality, and poorly done. Sad.
3. Be wary of conversations, as they end up costing money.
While at the coffee shop, the guy asked us if we spoke Arabic and after learning we didn’t, asked for a pen. After trying to teach us a couple words (which we already had in the guidebook), he tried to get Jamie to pay him TD20 for “Arabic lessons”. Jamie obviously got pissed, so the guy changed the line and pretended he was asking our age. You need to be careful what line you cross when the guy you’re scheming is twice your size.
After leaving the burber festival, we headed on our walk. So nice! On the walk, we came up with some new strategies:
1. We’re from Monorhea, north of Alaska. If they have a cousin there, are they in ...
2. Arselick? The town we live in? If we get stopped at the souvenir stand, we’ll
3. Ask “Se combien?” (What’s the price?) on every item until they get fed up with us.
1. We’re from Monorhea, north of Alaska. If they have a cousin there, are they in ...
2. Arselick? The town we live in? If we get stopped at the souvenir stand, we’ll
3. Ask “Se combien?” (What’s the price?) on every item until they get fed up with us.
We were given the opportunity to try this on the way back to the hotel. Two teenage boys started telling us to stop at their stand. I kept walking, as I was still pissed but Jamie stopped and put on quite a show! They showed him a little carpet, so Jamie held it like he was using it to hold a baby, and started talking like a baby. I am off to the side laughing, so they bring him some kind of little flag (?) which he uses to “cool” to baby. The take the carpet from him, leaving only the flag. He raises it and starts calling for the “People of Tunisia.” They give up on the flag and bring him a stuffed camel. He says it’s too big, so they bring him a smaller wooden camel, which he says is too small. They look confused, take both camels, and show him to the camel table. He then starts pointing at each camel, which are all the same, and asks “se combien?” He actually gets the guys to go through about ten camels, and we didn’t get any disappointment when we walked away...?
Ain Draham from our balcony.
Who’s got two thumbs and giant hair?
Ain Draham from the hills.
Who’s that?
Bella Regia
Bella Regia
Monday, July 9
Ain Draham was a great little town for us to visit. We found a nice little hotel, Hotel Les Pins that had a balcony, a TV, and a great view to forecast our hiking expeditions. We arrived Thursday, July 5, and hiked up to the radio tower that evening. Great panorama! Friday, we did some more hiking around. It was great. Saturday we hopped on the bus and found our way to Bella Regia, an ancient underground Roman city. It was so interesting to see the buildings, still some intact. Most of our ruin visits have been just the remaining foot left of the walls, this still had rooms and the mosaics. Very cool.
As usual, there were the guides and folk hanging around trying to give you info for money. We did our best to avoid them, as we had the guidebook and we really just enjoy exploring this stuff on our own. At one point, we saw this other couple that had hired a guide. He was walking in front of them on his cell phone! We laughed about that during our trek to the mound for a view. We make it to the top, and are scoping our next venture when this older guide gets to the bottom of the mound and starts yelling at us about what we’re looking at, where to go, etc. We bust down the other side, back to where we’d come up from, and made a back roach to the next stop trying to get away from him.
We come around a curve and can see he’s trying to catch up to us and trap us. So, to the Jaws theme, we walk quickly up a long trail and down into the next site. Success! We spent three hours walking around there and it was so cool.
On our bus trips, we drive by a lot of cafes packed with guys drinking tea throughout the day. Even a couple people we’re talked to say Tunisians don’t really do much. We talked about this during our walks and decided that Tunisia would be a whole country of Del Bocca Vista (the retirement village from Seinfeld). It’s true! It’s not age relative, but this is pretty much a whole country of people sitting around drinking tea/coffee, just talking about what should be done, but not actually doing anything to accomplish it. So, it’s either Del Bocca Vista or... state employment. Either way.
At the end of our walking, we waited outside the site for the bus. One of the attendants came over and started talking to a super nice guy. We had the typical conversation, then asked him if we went to Jendouba (where he lives), what would we do? His answer: nothing. Seriously! He told us he goes to work, then goes home, drinks coffee and plays cards, and goes to bed. That’s it! It was total validation for our retirement country theory. So funny!
Sunday was our last day in Ain Draham. Monday, we head to Le Kef. After our long day Saturday, we spent Sunday relaxing and watching stupid American movies. Why was Dudley Moore allowed an acting career? He’s so annoying.
Sunday was our last day in Ain Draham. Monday, we head to Le Kef. After our long day Saturday, we spent Sunday relaxing and watching stupid American movies. Why was Dudley Moore allowed an acting career? He’s so annoying.
Wednesday, July 11
Jamie McPheeters is now 33 years old! His birthday was yesterday, and he has now spent three of his birthdays in another country. We had a nice day. We went for a walk into town, strolled through the park (another example of the Tunisian stick-to-itive-ness), found the veggie stands and the MonoPlex. We loaded up, walked back to the hotel. Made some lunch then relaxed by the pool in the sun. By the end of the evening, though, I wasn’t feeling awesome. I got a little tummy trouble. So I spent all day Wednesday curled up in bed, taking naps and drinking water. But it’s finally subsiding, so we plan on hitting the museum tomorrow.
Musée des Arts et Traditions
Don't those look comfy?
Thursday, July 12
Today we went to the Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaires (Museum of Art and Popular Culture). It was very cool to see the history of the Burber/Arab people. The other sites we’ve been to are Roman history, so this was really great. The guide followed us around and told us about the background on all the items which was very helpful. Super nice guy and didn’t even push us for a tip - which we gave him because he totally deserved it.
On our way back to the hotel, we stopped and picked up the stuff for dinner. We then spent the afternoon by the pool. So nice! We’ll get up in the morning at 4AM to catch the 5:30AM bus to Sfax.
Sunday, July 15
After a long, uncomfortable, bumpy bus ride we made it to Sfax. We got a cab outside the bus stop to head to Hotel Thyna. The cab fare was only TD1.1, and the cabbie was very nice. He even wanted me to take the gardenia flowers from him. Hotel Thyna is really nice, and only a block from the medina. We spent Friday just hanging in the room recovering from our 4AM wake up. We both had a headache, so we chilled and napped. On Saturday we headed to the medina - quite an interesting place.
The medina is the reason that people come to Sfax, and for many travelers it’s the best in the country. Apart from the imposing walls, it lacks the monumental grandeur of Sousse or Kairouan, but its considerable charm lies in the fact that the medina is remarkably untouched by tourism.
Lonely Planet Guidebook
Lonely Planet Guidebook
What a crazy place! Narrow little alleys full of shops, apartments, and hotels. It was very interesting. After the medina we walked around the streets a little. We came to a shopping mall and walked around. We don’t get nearly as many people trying to get us into their store, but one kid tried here. His line was “I like to move it, move it” from that song. We assume that was the only English he knew, so he tried, but Jamie and I just started laughing and kept walking.
On Sunday we headed back to the medina to finish our souvenir shopping. One guy tried to get Jamie to look at the shorts he had for sale. We had just bought scarfs for the ladies, and Jamie grabbed one, rubbed it on his cheek, and said “but I’m pretty” to the guy in French. The guy just busted up! We all laughed for a minute, and we carried on our way. That Jamie.
Our plan is to try to get to the beach tomorrow. This city is really nice, much cleaner than most of the others. But it’s a good town for a day or two at most. This is how you earn, so we’ll try something else tomorrow, then on to Tunis.
Tuesday, July 17
Trains in Tunisia - dumbest experience yet, and there have been plenty. The train was supposed to leave at 11:15AM. At around 11:45AM, the train actually leaves. Based on info from the guidebook, we purchased comfort seats, which were about 40% more than standard, but we didn’t want to have to fight for our seats or stand which you have to do in standard. We finally have a train to board, but there is no indication as to which cars are standard, first class, or comfort. So... we try to board in the middle, then decide to ask. The guy we ask sends us to the wrong end of the train, so we have to hike though five cars to get to comfort. Keep in mind, this is through a tight aisle, with our backpacks, and with Tunisians - most the large, pushy older ladies - going the opposite way. It was great, and another example of Tunisian “procedures” that make no sense to me.
Carthage
Thursday, July 19
After a two-hour delay, we’re finally over the Atlantic on our way to JFK. What a crazy last two days we had in Tunis to celebrate our journey and return. After the crappy train ride, we arrived in Tunis and got a room at Hotel Solambo. We tried it first because we could get our own bathroom and it had a balcony. We relaxed for a bit then headed out to find some dinner. We stopped at the first place we came across that had chickens on the roaster. While there, a guy named Lassaad started talking to us. He asked where we were from, and when we said America, he was all excited because he lives in Philadelphia, and was just back in Tunisia visiting family.
Super funny guy, and great to talk to as he gave us a lot of insight about Tunisia’s people. He had been going through a hard time for a while because in about 2001 he married a Tunisian woman to please his mother. He really liked American women but wanted to make mommy proud. They were married, went back to America for a while, then she was pregnant. They had the baby, then wanted to bring her back to Tunisia to visit family.
Super funny guy, and great to talk to as he gave us a lot of insight about Tunisia’s people. He had been going through a hard time for a while because in about 2001 he married a Tunisian woman to please his mother. He really liked American women but wanted to make mommy proud. They were married, went back to America for a while, then she was pregnant. They had the baby, then wanted to bring her back to Tunisia to visit family.
While there, the mom decided she wanted the two houses that he owned. He said no, would leave them for the daughter, but that wasn’t good enough. He came back to America without them, and has been trying to figure it all out since then. Tunisia would only let him into the country, and see the daughter, if he paid the $14K in child support, which he did. To see the daughter he has to do it at the police station so he can’t take her anywhere to do anything fun. It sounds really sad and very hard to deal with, but he’s trying. Luckily, his daughter was born in the US, so when she’s older and will want to go there, they’ll probably reconnect.
After talking at the diner, we asked where beer was served, and he took us to a male only bar. He said you use to be able to get beer at any restaurant/cafe, but they changed the laws a couple years ago. The government now taxes just for the opportunity to be able to serve it, on top of the tax for alcohol. We head to the bar, which of course I ask him if it’s really okay for me to go in. His response I loved: “Yeah, it’s funny!” I ask, is there any better way for Jamie and I to finish this trip than in a male only bar where I’m the only female, and I have short hair, and I’m drinking a beer! Awesome. We finished the evening talking about the differences between the US and Tunisia, Oregon (which he had been to) and Pennsylvania, and Bush vs. Clinton. It was great.
As Wednesday was our last day, we spent it at Carthage. So, this is where all the white people are. By the way, Jamie and I are freaks. We’ve been stared at, especially him, since I’m a woman they won’t look at me. But here’s all the white people and they’re giant, silly tour buses. We make it up to the museum entrance, and there are eight tour buses parked, not a good sign. And it follows suit, while we’re in the museum we must work our way around the constant space hogging group. But as some pay-back, they all wear stickers indicating what group they’re in. It’s like they’re in kindergarten! Our society really needs to grow a pair. After Carthage, we wanted to hit the beach for the last time. Jamie had read about a beach on the way back from Cathage, so we gave it a shot, and it was disgusting. Garbage, swarms of people, no room, and a grass filled swimming area. We walk to the water to look for a spot, and there isn’t one. Poor Jamie knew I wanted a swim and was trying to find us a spot. He said, “well, do you want to head down this and look?”
After talking at the diner, we asked where beer was served, and he took us to a male only bar. He said you use to be able to get beer at any restaurant/cafe, but they changed the laws a couple years ago. The government now taxes just for the opportunity to be able to serve it, on top of the tax for alcohol. We head to the bar, which of course I ask him if it’s really okay for me to go in. His response I loved: “Yeah, it’s funny!” I ask, is there any better way for Jamie and I to finish this trip than in a male only bar where I’m the only female, and I have short hair, and I’m drinking a beer! Awesome. We finished the evening talking about the differences between the US and Tunisia, Oregon (which he had been to) and Pennsylvania, and Bush vs. Clinton. It was great.
As Wednesday was our last day, we spent it at Carthage. So, this is where all the white people are. By the way, Jamie and I are freaks. We’ve been stared at, especially him, since I’m a woman they won’t look at me. But here’s all the white people and they’re giant, silly tour buses. We make it up to the museum entrance, and there are eight tour buses parked, not a good sign. And it follows suit, while we’re in the museum we must work our way around the constant space hogging group. But as some pay-back, they all wear stickers indicating what group they’re in. It’s like they’re in kindergarten! Our society really needs to grow a pair. After Carthage, we wanted to hit the beach for the last time. Jamie had read about a beach on the way back from Cathage, so we gave it a shot, and it was disgusting. Garbage, swarms of people, no room, and a grass filled swimming area. We walk to the water to look for a spot, and there isn’t one. Poor Jamie knew I wanted a swim and was trying to find us a spot. He said, “well, do you want to head down this and look?”
I responded, “or we can head back to the hotel and go get some dinner.”
So that’s where we headed as we hadn’t eaten all day, and the beach SUCKED. But the restaurant Jamie picked totally made up for it. We each had a salad, and bread, Coca-Lite (even cold!), and shared a pizza for TD15. Man, it was good. My salad was lettuce, tomatoes, olives, and big slices of fresh mozzarella. We ordered the pizza with a big artichoke heart in the middle. Delicious!
Then we headed to the little souvenir shop Jamie saw by the hotel and found some cool stuff. It was the same price as the stores in the median, but much better quality. We had about TD80 to spend, and as we learned from Lassaad, you can only get about 30% of the trade value because it’s not on used on the open market. We loaded up, and got some really cool things.
We got back to the hotel, packed up, and got excited about heading home. This has been quite an experience for us.
This past year for me has been an understanding of how fortunate I am. The fact that I not only made it through the accident, but did it still being able to function is amazing on its own. But the fact that I had so many families and friends to support us was such a blessing. And that I get to be with Jamie just blows me away. What an amazing guy. I’ve got a better understanding of my luck in my little world.
We got back to the hotel, packed up, and got excited about heading home. This has been quite an experience for us.
This past year for me has been an understanding of how fortunate I am. The fact that I not only made it through the accident, but did it still being able to function is amazing on its own. But the fact that I had so many families and friends to support us was such a blessing. And that I get to be with Jamie just blows me away. What an amazing guy. I’ve got a better understanding of my luck in my little world.
Sfax view from our balcony.
Sfax medina.
Pharmacy logo.
In Closing
This trip made me realize not only how lucky I am, but what a benefit it is to have the freedoms and choices we have in our country. It’s the little things like getting to buy beer in any store or knowing what the price is and it really being that. And the bigger decisions, like being able to choose what kind of work you want to do and earning enough to comfortably provide what you need and want. Sure, having to work isn’t awesome, but we have so many options as to what we could do for work, and that’s not the same everywhere. Especially if you’re female. What a great lesson in learning, understanding, and appreciation this trip has given.
And a wonderful, uninterrupted, month spent with my Jamie.